“Manus x Machina” exhibition at Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Posted on May 3, 2016 | | 0 Comments
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Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology

 

 

The exhibition address the founding of haute couture in the 19th century, when the sewing machine was invented, and the emergence of a distinction between the hand (manus) and the machine (machina) and how fashion designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.

 

The purpose is to unravel the hand-machine conundrum which is said to divide handmade and machine-made fashion in completely opposite directions.

 

The head curaton Andrew Bolton, was inspired by Chanel’s Haute Couture wedding endemble for Fall 2014, a 3d printed white polyamide overlay, hand -stitched clear crystals, hamd emboidered by Lessage with gold synthetic sequins  and he explains that in fashion, a new relationship has risen between men and machine. Before, haute couture was equal to the handmade, and ‘pret a porter’ was mechanically created thus less exclusive. Nowadays, this dichotomy is fading. was hand-casted and mechanically sewn.

 

The particular dress was actually made of scuba all machine sewed and the train was a combination of both a hand and machine : sketched by the hand and then transfer printed by a machine and then hand emboidered by Lessage. It took 450 hours to finish the dress and the knitting patterns were manually finished off and also the 42 golden and crystal buttons were applied by hand.

 

Furthermore he adds about the potential use of 3-D printing, which he believes “has the potential to be as radical as the sewing machine in terms of its democracy.”

 

Anna Wintour made the connection between the Met and the sponsor , Apple, a perfect parthner  for  fashion and technology.

 

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Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015

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Chanel Haute Couture Suit 1963-1968

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Chanel Haute Couture Fall Winter 2005

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Hussein Chalayan FallWinter 2011

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Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture FallWinter 2014

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Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Spring 2010

 

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Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga Spring2003

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Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Fall1970

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You can also buy this catalog at Metropolitan Museum of art, or order it online.

http://store.metmuseum.org/exhibition-catalogues/manus-x-machina-fashion-in-an-age-of-technology-limited-edition/invt/80033241

 

The fascinating companion volume to the 2016 Costume Institute exhibition, Manus x Machina (“Hand x Machine”) is both an exploration of traditional artistry and a projection about the future of fashion.

 

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